No, not really heading for Mali but we did pass a brilliant road sign in Zagora today …presumably that means by camel.
Following the Drâa Valley this morning, we headed south on what eventually becomes a dead end road as it reaches the desert. Through the big town of Zagora, we made our way to Tamegroute to see the Zaouia Naciri, a library but also a place of refuge where people come in the hope of miraculous cures.
Ushered into the car park by the usual ‘faux guide’, we tried to make it clear that we wanted to walk around on our own by saying we were going to have lunch first.
“Don’t worry, take your time, I’ll wait for you in restaurant.”
Fortunately, we were saved when a group of people came in and enlisted his services. Wolfed our lunch down and made our way to the library while he was otherwise engaged.
This was such an interesting visit. The librarian takes you round and points out all the interesting stuff (about 15 minutes) but right at the start, he informs you that a donation to the charity of the brotherhood is expected at the end – which is a great way to do things.
There was an early edition of the Koran printed on gazelle hide that dated back to 1063 – incredible. Astrology and mathematical books dating back hundreds of years, all beautifully hand written with a bamboo pen.
I asked about fire protection and the librarian pointed to one small fire extinguisher on the wall. Unfortunately, no photos allowed.
We did learn why the Moroccan passport control stamped the back page of our passport though. They write right to left so the back of the book is their front – suppose it’s obvious really!
Outside, another faux guide was waiting ‘to help us continue our tour’ – we don’t want a flipping tour 😬
Drove a bit further up the road, hoping to look at some of the beautiful green pottery for which the area is also famous, but the scrum to guide us in was so off-putting we turned around.
Had to go back up to Zagora to pick up the road west, which we were expecting to be in poor condition, but apart from about five miles of gravel, it was fine.
Mile after mile of barren land really reminded us that we’re on the African continent. The highlight was a caravan of about 50 camels – it was astonishing. We thought they were wild at first but then saw a man with them, also the last camel had his two front legs hobbled…I wish I hadn’t seen that! A lorry came quite fast up the road and suddenly they all ran – it was an amazing site, I never knew that they could move so quickly and dare I say it, gracefully. When I next have a lot to drink I’ll demonstrate 🤣
Hit a sandstorm about a mile from our campsite – that was a bizarre experience too. We missed the turning as we couldn’t see a thing. Fortunately, it passed quickly and we’re now on another lovely site in the palm trees for about £9 including electricity and bread in the morning. 😊
