Although we’ve only moved about 10km along the coast, we had to drive back inland to the main road and then out again, as there’s no coastal route.
The drive out across the dry river bed was as traumatic as the drive in last night. Once again the metal bar at the back scraped along the ground – at least this time we were fully expecting it.
Looking around for some vegetables, the nearest place was a couple more kilometres off our route at Bni Boufrah. They only had tomatoes, potatoes and onions, but still struggling with the fact that it’s pence not pounds that it adds up to. Today, we were shown the price on a calculator with the point in the wrong place. The shopkeeper laughed his head off when he realised the amount we thought it was!
We were heading for a campsite near Cala Iris when I read a bad review about the road in, so found a water tap to fill up and ended up in an empty beach car park instead.

Cala Iris looks like it’s about to become a resort as they’ve put a big wide promenade in and some very clean public toilets. It has cliffs either side and two rocky islets out at sea, which is a beautiful Mediterranean blue. It should be a stunning place but once again, it is completely covered in plastic rubbish. People just sit amongst it on the beach and generally add to it with their picnics. It really makes us sad that they don’t care.

We walked up to the headland to the west and thanked our lucky stars that we didn’t attempt to get to the campsite when we saw the state of the road along the way. Came back via the little port and waded through more rubbish – whole bags full this time. In the countryside we’ve seen sheep and goats and even donkeys grazing on this stuff – no wonder it gets in the food chain.
We seem to have adopted about five dogs today – it may be because we gave them our last tin of tuna. We could see all their ribs – poor things.

The sun finally came out late afternoon and we sat outside the van getting high on the smell of dope that’s seems to be everywhere. It may have something to do with the fact that we’re still in the Rif region with the mountains just behind us. One of the fishermen had a very long pipe thing that seemed to keep him happy – didn’t seem to be catching many fish though! 🤣

Absolutely beautiful sunset, and it’s not dark until 8:30!

Cala Iris 10/5/25

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